Ken Hartke

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I'm retired and living solo "out west" in the New Mexico desert. I've been an observer and blogger for years and usually have four or five blogs going but wrote for myself or for friends. A lot of it was travel stories or daily random postings -- but it was a good experience. Red Room allowed me to share things on a wider scale and with its demise, I (maybe) found a more public voice.

In Praise of Old Hotels — Part 8: Faunbrook Inn

FAUNBROOK INN - WEST CHESTER, PA 

James Baldwin was a local millionaire in the 1860s who had the need for a fine home so he built himself a very impressive place in West Chester. The home later belonged to GOP Congressman Smedley Darlington (what a name) who was also, of course, a wealthy oilman. The house is now the Faunbrook Inn. It's not exactly a hotel -- it is clearly a house -- but the Inn is very impressive. The house is constructed in a Federal-Italianate style with three floors and a large wrap-around porch with ornamental ironwork. There is a large parlor, library, dining room and sitting room/bar on the first floor and very nice bedrooms on the second and third floors.

The rooms are spacious and furnished with antiques. Each guest room had a private bath. The house was extremely quiet considering that it was 150 years old. Apart from the sound of someone using the stairs you could not hear anything from the rest of the house...not even water running or toilets flushing. People seemed comfortable congregating in the library. The porch was also very inviting since the weather was mild and the first floor windows and doors were open. There were large windows in the parlor that converted into doors so people could drift in and out as they pleased.. We were there as part of a wedding group so there was about a dozen people mingling throughout the Inn.

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The breakfasts were excellent - French Toast strata with apples, berries and cream, apple-flavored sausage, scrambled eggs, juice and coffee...that was day 1. Day 2 was just as good and included an extra sample of the local "Scrapple" which is apparently a Pennsylvania thing -- sort of a sausage made up of butchering leftovers that tasted like bland sausage mixed with sawdust. Must be an acquired taste. The group managed to polish it all off.  I was so busy eating I forgot to ask if this was the standard breakfast or something special for the wedding guests. It seemed like it was a normal breakfast based on how it was served.

 

The wedding took place at the Inn in the garden on a brick patio next to the porch. The garden has a natural look to it but sort of a faded glory feel as if it was there when the inn was built.

What to do in the Brandywine Valley? -- Go to Baldwin's Book Barn

The thing to see close by is Baldwin's Book Barn -- a five story barn built in 1822 by the Darlington family (remember Smedley?) that was converted into a book store 75 years ago by William Baldwin (must be the son of the guy that built the Inn). It's only a short distance south of the Faunbrook Inn. A person could spend a weekend just roaming around in the stacks. Books are arranged by categories, more or less, and then shelved by author, more or less. The special first editions and rare books are on the first floor. Apparently they sell books by the foot. You can purchase refurbished leather-bound books at $300 per foot for your executive library...if you have one.  We spent about an hour wandering around. I like Joseph Conrad and got a couple of his novels while there.

 
Recent Comments
Former Member
Didn't you discover the Brandywine River Museum while you were there? Fascinating place and beautiful. Three generations of Wyeth... Read More
Sunday, 11 October 2015 21:35
Ken Hartke
Charlie -- we were sort of house bound with the wedding party so we didn't get out much. We encountered a hurricane as we were on ... Read More
Monday, 12 October 2015 00:24
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In Praise of Old Hotels -- Part 7: Route 66

ROUTE 66 -- THE MOTHER ROAD

There is nothing quite like it -- an east-west highway running 2,400 miles from Chicago to Los Angeles...or actually Santa Monica.  America's own Silk Road connects the Great Lakes to the Pacific Ocean and laces together a bazillion points along the way. The iconic highway existed in a variety of different local configurations for over fifty years until it was finally replaced by the interstate highway system. Now we follow I-44 from Chicago to Oklahoma City and then pick up I-40 west from there....but the old Route 66 is still out there.

 

If you want to find it today, look for the "Historic Route 66" signs and the relics of once thriving roadside businesses, like Lucille's road house gas station and tourist court near Hydro, Oklahoma. Lucille's is one of the many places that have been at least partially preserved along the old highway. Some places are tourist icons while others are living on in a second or third life long after the highway surrendered to the interstate. Some are crumbling ruins.

 

 

THE BLUE SWALLOW MOTEL, TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO

You can't stay at Lucille's anymore but in Tucumcari, NM you can stay at the Blue Swallow Motel, one of many Mother Road era motels that still exist in this town at the junction of old Route 66 and US Highway 54. I understand that the place may be under new management since I was there but I'm sure the old owners were very careful in selecting a buyer when they finally decided to sell. They practically tucked you in at night so I'm sure they were picky about new owners. It looks like room reservations can now be made online at their website, which is a change from the former owners

 

The Blue Swallow Court opened in 1941 on Route 66 as it passed through Tucumcari. It has been modernized ...a little, but mostly it is much the way it was back in the 1940s and 1950s. Rooms are small but big enough. Décor is 1950s including the vintage television. The telephone is a 1940s era Bakelite rotary phone.

 

Each room has a garage where you could park your Hudson or Studebaker back in the day. Today, there are murals painted on the interior walls of the garages and the doors are often kept open to show them off. Mine was a scene from the movie "Easy Rider" but there were others including some from "Cars".  Outside you can sit and relax in the lawn chairs on your porch or maybe even the glider.  When I stayed I spent about an hour chatting with the owner out on the porch chairs. The two guys in the room next door came out and talked for a while. They were from Denmark and were on a cross-country trip on rented Harleys. They said there is a regular travel business catering to Europeans for one-way Harley trips along old Route 66.  They picked them up in Chicago and would turn them in in Los Angeles and fly back home from there. If I had a dollar for every lost Brit or European I've met on Route 66 I'd probably have enough to buy a good supper at the Pow-Wow restaurant. Europeans seem to be in love with Route 66, even more than the Americans who race by on the Interstate.

Under the former owners,  an added perk was a free breakfast if you checked out and were on your way at 7 AM. The free breakfast wasn't at the motel...no, it was down the road a little at the Pow Wow Restaurant and Lounge. The 7 AM exit was to allow the owners to get the rooms ready for the next guests...this is really a "mom and pop" operation. They managed the place and did much of the renovation on their own. They had a friend do the murals.

Tucumcari is a struggling place but probably the biggest town between Amarillo and Albuquerque. It has quite a collection of Mother Road era motels and tourist shops.

 

THE SAFARI INN

If you can't get in at the Blue Swallow (and it is difficult at times), try The Safari Inn across the street. The Safari is  a retro Route 66 motel that dates back only to the 1950s. The Safari does a pretty good job of recreating the 1950-1960 era but with some nice upgrades where it counts.  The rooms are nice and feature some of the nostalgic stuff from the 1960s.   They have a nice patio lounge area with retro furniture where the weary traveler can sit out in the evening and unwind with a six-pack from up the street.  This is not a fancy place.  There are a few vintage cars parked around that make it feel  very 1960-ish.

THE POW-WOW

If you don't want to unwrap your food or eat off of a tray, most motel owners will recommend places including the Pow-Wow Restaurant down at the western end of the Route 66 strip. I've eaten there several times and it is an okay place and a good spot to get your first (or last) New Mexico food, depending on your highway direction. The Pow Wow has a shuttle van so you can call them to come get you so you don't have to climb back in the car. The last time I was there I had two loaded chicken tostados and a cold beer. They will sell you a six-pack to take back to your patio or the lawn chairs at the motel. When I went back to the motel in the shuttle I met a couple from Bristol, England. They were driving old Route 66 and then heading up to the motorcycle rally at Sturgis in South Dakota.  We sat out in the motel's patio area and relaxed and talked for a while before heading off to bed.

I'm sure there were many places like the Blue Swallow or the Safari Inn tucked away in small towns all along Route 66. Now, in the age of the interstate you have to look for them.

*   *   *

 

Recent Comments
Former Member
Ah, Ken, what you're doing to me. The first time I drove the venerable 66 across the country at age 17 -- that trip was from Phill... Read More
Wednesday, 30 September 2015 01:42
Stephen Evans
I remember the show, but that's as close as I got, I think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw1tiNGQ4wI... Read More
Wednesday, 30 September 2015 04:52
Ken Hartke
You still see a few folks driving those Corvettes and similar classic cars along the old highway. There must be a whole industry t... Read More
Thursday, 01 October 2015 15:26
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In Praise of Old Hotels — Part 6: A Couple of Fine Tourist Stops

Santa Fe, New Mexico and Cody, Wyoming both thrive on the tourist trade. Santa Fe has a long history of travelers coming and going and Cody is a popular stopover for travelers heading to Yellowstone National Park. Today, Santa Fe is not wild west but shows a more refined and elegant side even though it has a rough and tumble history linked to the Santa Fe Trail. Cody is wild west through and through and seems to magnify this aspect…it practically rolls in it.

THE IRMA HOTEL, CODY, WYOMING 

The Irma Hotel was built by Buffalo Bill Cody and named for his daughter — that would be Irma. It was opened in 1902 and has been a local landmark ever since. The saloon on the ground floor is famous for the cherry wood back bar which was a gift from Queen Victoria…who died in 1901 and never visited the saloon.  The place is popular with bikers on their way to Sturgis or other western motorcycle rallies.  We were there between two rallies so there were a lot of interesting bikes lined up out front.

Buffalo Bill’s ownership ended in 1913 when he sold it to his wife to keep creditors from taking it. Eventually the hotel passed into other hands and was expanded. Apparently some rooms are restored and furnished with antiques but we stayed in a more “modern” room that was spacious but looked like an old Howard Johnson’s room. I wasn’t impressed with the room but we were here during the busy summer season. The place was pretty crowded. I assume the restored rooms are much better.  Here is a picture of a room we didn’t see.  I halfway expected to see a mechanical bull in the room but it was fine.

 

 

 

 The place really is as theatrical as Buffalo Bill. It could be described as a saloon with a hotel attached. The saloon was crowded and seemed to take up most of the ground floor of the building. we were hard pressed to find a place to sit but everyone was having a good time and the beer was cold. Queen Victoria's bar is impressive.

 

 One of the features of the hotel is the theatrical reenactment of a wild west gunfight out in the street. Tourists take their places on the covered sidewalk as the lawmen and outlaws face off and eventually shoot each other. This is quite a cliché but the hotel guests seem to eat it up.

We also went out to Stampede Park to see the "Cody Night Rodeo", a nightly rodeo during the summer months. This was not my first rodeos, so to speak, and this one was pretty good. If you like horses and horsemanship, you will enjoy it. We left before the bull riders started...not my thing. Like everything else in Cody, it was a little over the top…but it was entertaining.

 

HOTEL ST. FRANCIS, SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO

In the heart of Santa Fe, down by the plaza, sits the 1920-era Hotel St. Francis. It is reputed to be the oldest hotel in Santa Fe, which surprises me a little considering the long history of travelers coming to this place and the fact that Santa Fe was the seat of government way back under Spanish and Mexican rule.  Hotel St. Francis is about a block away from the city plaza and the Palace of the Governors and a similar distance from the Basilica of St. Francis.

The hotel is more Mediterranean in style than Southwestern or Pueblo but the color scheme seems to fit in with the local buildings and the Santa Fe ambiance. There was a time when the Southwestern style was considered uncouth. The Basilica of St Francis is French Gothic as is the Loretto Chapel. Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy (the inspiration for Willa Cather's Death Comes for the Archbishop) was French so some things look a little odd now that the town has embraced its Spanish and Pueblo past. There are other hotels that feature the Pueblo style if that is what the traveler wants. The hotel furnishings are sparse in comparison to some other historic inns or hotels. A lot of the furnishings seem to be made by local craftsmen.

Rooms are small but comfortable — one doesn’t come to Santa Fe to sit in their room so the size isn’t a problem and is a reflection on the era when the hotel was built. We stayed a couple days and the room was adequate. We spent almost all of our time out walking around town and I don’t even recall eating at the hotel. There are great restaurants and pubs within walking distance.  We did have a few Irish Coffees in the hotel bar one evening and it was very nice and an intimate place to just relax and reflect on the day’s activities.

The hotel is a little “upscale” and I had the feeling that the staff felt that they were, too. They were polite but not exactly friendly. I came away with a mildly negative impression of the place but I think it was mainly due to the staff because the accommodations were fine and the location was perfect for exploring downtown Santa Fe.

As I said, if you are wanting more of a traditional Santa Fe (Spanish Revival or Pueblo) style there are other places. The La Fonda is a block or so away and worth a visit. The La Fonda also dates to the 1920s and was owned by the Santa Fe Railroad and operated by Fred Harvey. We had lunch there and it was very nice.  I will add that to my list of historic hotels at some point.

Recent Comments
Former Member
This is a great series. As much as I always loved the highway and seeing the interior of this country I never got to see enough of... Read More
Sunday, 20 September 2015 20:36
Ken Hartke
Charlie -- over the course of these many years I've stayed in some pretty bad places...thanks to our tiny lodging allowance -- but... Read More
Monday, 21 September 2015 03:38
Former Member
Ahh, trains! I have to thank the U.S. Air Force for sending me to some of the places I've seen -- and on trains. My first Pullman ... Read More
Monday, 21 September 2015 08:39
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Attention to Detail

I recently saw the movie Mr. Holmes, which I enjoyed very much. Imagine a 93 year old Sherlock Holmes who lives with a housekeeper and her son out in the country where he keeps busy with his bees.  He has outlived his companions and is reflecting over his past successes and that one particular case that sent him into retirement. His age has caught up with him. He still has his abilities but only in fleeting glimpses.

We have a bunch of Sherlock Holmes movies and television shows to choose from these days. He is always the master of observation and detail. Almost nothing escapes his attention. It is frustrating for his companions -- like Watson and Lestrade -- who have seemingly normal powers of observation and deduction. Sherlock not only observes everything but he remembers and recalls it all as well.

There are other similar TV characters in shows like Lie To Me or The Mentalist who have well honed or specialized skills at observation. We seem to enjoy this theme....and yet, most of us do not have similar skills. We fail to observe details. Our attention flits from one thing to the other without really absorbing anything. What dress was she wearing? What kind of purse? Did he wear glasses or a ring?

This past weekend I happened to be a witness to a crime. On reflection I think "witness" is way too strong a word. The event, sadly, ended with the death of the perpetrator and I didn't see that part...I was only present at the beginning. I saw the aftermath and the results of the original incident -- property damage and minor injury. That part could have been much worse than it was. By the time I realized what was going on and reacted it was too late to observe what actually happened or even see the offender. It was sort of a novelty at first...just a commotion over by the door...I wasn't ready or primed to be paying attention. I spoke with some others on the scene and realized that most people were like me...they saw something but only a piece of the whole. From that piece they were willing to make broader assumptions.  "He was on drugs." "It was a domestic violence altercation."  "He must be crazy." The person in question intentionally rammed another car but not everyone was sure who was driving.  He...it was a he...sprinted away from the scene and was almost hit by a car. The driver of that car was the only person who actually seemed to see him enough to give a description. It was a chaotic scene and almost half the people around me were calling 911 to report the incident to the police.  The other fateful events of this incident took place some distance away.....with a whole other set of witnesses who may or may not have seen anything. I'm sure that there was probably a bunch of other 911 calls. The police were racing to the scene from all directions with only the scraps of information that was reported on those 911 calls.

I usually pride myself as being observant. If I'm on a walk or in a natural setting I can pick out sounds and the presence of birds and various plants or small animals. But in a random social setting -- like at this fast food restaurant -- I don't pay much attention.  I was once present at another crime many years ago but with the same general result. This was a gas station robbery and I was in full view of what was happening but not paying attention. Something was going on but it didn't involve me so it didn't register.

For most of the last forty years I lived in a small town where not much happened. I never was present or observed any crime or similar incident during those years. We lived within ear-shot of a sporting gun club and heard shots fired every day for hours. Later, my daughter lived two doors from the site of a double homicide and she never heard the gunshots --- or they just didn't register because she grew up hearing gunshots.  We had car accidents in our town but not much else. Maybe people who live in a larger city or who live in places where there is more crime might be more observant.  Apparently there are ways to improve your observation and recall skills and there are training programs for police officers to help them be more observant.

Here is a little YouTube test I found....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAFfYLR_IRY

 

 

Recent Comments
Rosy Cole
Every time, observation is bound to be partial. It's primed by temperament, past experiences, juxtaposition of events and our phys... Read More
Monday, 14 September 2015 19:36
Ken Hartke
Thanks for the comment. Our perception is subjective and governed by our own experience. If something spontaneous happens outside... Read More
Monday, 14 September 2015 20:13
Rosy Cole
Good points, Ken. BTW, I took the test and only got 10. Suspect I should have ignored the gorilla...!
Tuesday, 15 September 2015 11:16
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6 Comments

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